NARS

New York · since 1994

Makeup, written as a photograph.

NARS is not a counter of nudes. François Nars trained as a makeup artist and a photographer, and the house still behaves like a studio: one black object, one exact color, one frame.

In this issue

  1. 01The houseA photographer who started a makeup line
  2. 02The compactWhy everything is black
  3. 03The cheekOrgasm, Laguna, and a real flush
  4. 04The mouthNames that refuse to whisper
  5. 05The faceLight before coverage

The house

A makeup line started by someone who already knew how light hits a cheek.

François Nars launched the house in 1994 in New York. He was already known on sets, shooting as well as painting faces. That double job is the whole point. NARS color is chosen the way a photographer chooses a gel: it has to read in a picture, not only in a bathroom mirror.

The early offer was small on purpose. Twelve lipsticks. A sharp black case. Names that sounded like a caption under a photograph, not like a polite description of a pink. The line grew into blush, bronzer, concealer, and foundation, but the rule stayed: if a color does not change the picture, it does not ship.

People still meet the house through one product and then learn the rest. That is how a studio works. You remember the frame, then you ask what else was on the set.

The compact

Black, so the color is the only thing you see.

Open a NARS compact and the outside is almost mute: matte black, a small wordmark, no pattern fighting the powder. The color sits in a square pan. That square is the house signature as much as any shade name. It photographs cleanly. It stacks. It does not try to look like jewelry.

The black case also does a practical job. A peach blush in a white compact looks sweet. The same peach in black looks like a decision. NARS has always preferred the second reading. The object tells you the color is allowed to be obvious.

What the black is for

It keeps the focus on the pigment. Gold shimmer, a red, a bronze — they sit against nothing else.

What it is not

It is not a luxury code for its own sake. The case is a tool, the way a camera body is black so the picture can be loud.

The cheek

Orgasm is a flush. Laguna is where the sun would have been.

Orgasm · blush · $36

Peachy pink with a gold shimmer that only shows when light hits the bone. On warm skin it looks like heat. On cool skin it can tip coral, so a lighter hand is the whole technique. It became the house's famous cheek because it refuses to look like a circle of blush.

Laguna · bronzer · $42

A warm satin bronze for the high points: cheek, temple, the bridge. One pass warms a neutral face. A second pass is a real tan. Cool complexions should stop early. Laguna is the outdoor half of the same idea as Orgasm: color that could have happened, not color that was drawn on.

Orgasm X is the same peach pushed deeper, for medium and deep warm skin. Deep Throat is the cool alternative: a pink satin that never goes coral.

The mouth

The lipstick names are captions, not descriptions.

A NARS lipstick is rarely called "soft rose." The name is meant to be said out loud. Schiap points at Elsa Schiaparelli's shocking pink, a color from fashion, not from a nude chart. Other names are blunt on purpose. The house would rather a color have a personality than a polite category.

Powermatte is the modern version of that idea: a flat, staying lip. Starwoman is a blue-red that looks truer on neutral skin and cooler on very fair skin. Slow Ride is a warm nude that can turn brown if the skin is pink. Don't Stop sits in the middle, a rose you can wear on a Tuesday. The technique is the same for all three. Line nothing. Press once. Let it set before coffee.

Afterglow is the opposite finish: a sheer shine, Aragon being the warm coral. Use it when the cheek is already doing the work and the mouth should only agree.

The face

NARS complexion is about light first, then cover.

Light Reflecting Foundation is a satin, not a mask. Deauville is the light neutral most fair-to-light faces start with. Punjab leans medium and warm, with a little olive. Barcelona is the tan neutral. If the shade matches the jaw in daylight and still looks like skin near the ear, it is right. If it looks like a layer, it is too deep or too cool.

Radiant Creamy Concealer is the second step, not the first. Vanilla is fair and cool and goes too light the moment the face tans. Custard is the light-medium neutral people mean when they say the concealer disappeared. Ginger is medium warm. Café is for deeper warm skin and should match the face, not only the under-eye. Tap it where the shadow actually is. A full triangle under the eye is a different brand's habit.

The order the studio expects: bronzer or blush for the life of the face, foundation only where tone is uneven, concealer last and small. NARS color was built to be seen. Covering the whole face first hides the reason you opened the compact.

A short index

Not a shop. A way to remember what each name is doing.

NameWhat it isUS price
OrgasmPeachy pink blush, golden shimmer, the house flush$36
LagunaWarm satin bronzer for the places sun would hit$42
Deep ThroatCool pink satin blush, the answer when Orgasm goes coral$36
Radiant Creamy ConcealerVanilla, Custard, Ginger, Café — small areas only$32
Light ReflectingSatin foundation: Deauville, Punjab, Barcelona$52
PowermatteStaying lipstick: Starwoman, Slow Ride, Don't Stop$34
SchiapA pink named for Schiaparelli, not for "everyday"$28

To the studio

Write what you are trying to look like.

Not a shade quiz. A note: your coloring, the photograph you have in mind, the NARS name you keep hearing. It stays on this page.

Note kept.

The studio has the picture you described. Nothing else leaves this page.